Lathe Tool Grinding Part 1

My take on grinding HSS lathe tools. The forms of tools and angles discussed may not be what is shown in books but they work well for me and make grinding mu…

25 Responses to Lathe Tool Grinding Part 1

  1. DANIEL JEREZ says:

    if you ever give up on machining ,try singing…you got a nice voice for
    country music….

  2. soojin Ahn says:

    thank you,

  3. John Scott says:

    Thank you for posting. Really liked the wooden tool model as it is much
    easier to see/ understand .good day.

  4. Randall Moore says:

    Thanks Hal.

  5. Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** says:

    Thank you for showing lathe tool grinding just what I needed to see !
    Mike

  6. Lanny Netz says:

    Great video! I appreciate that you take all the time needed to explain the
    subject. 

  7. Harald Finster says:

    Thank you for your excellent and helpful videos.
    Yesterday I turned a MK3 taper on my lathe and was quite frustrated because
    of the poor surface of the product. It was my first attempt to turn steel
    using “home made” HSS lathe tools.
    Following your precise description I just increased the cutting angles of
    my tools – and it worked like a charm.

  8. Bad Dog says:

    Do any of your vids show how to make the hole in the end of the shaft to
    fit the tailstock? For instance I want to mount a 1″ shaft I don’t know
    how to mark the center and what to cut it out with so it fits onto the
    tailstock without slopping around? Also if anyone knows a good video on
    making outside chamfers and chamfer tooling that would be of huge help
    too. Thanks for any info! 

  9. Dale Richardson says:

    Great vid, like your illustrations and the way you look at machining,from a
    little different prospective in all your vids, FYI, I’ve used what they
    call a green wheel for grinding carbide and it did a good job.

  10. Halligan142 says:

    Thanks! I’m really interested to see how that one will turn out. I’m going
    to try it in aluminum, 1018 steel which finishes can be a bit finicky at
    times on and also the 12L14 which I’m wondering if because it is so soft it
    would tear the surface more than cut it. We shall see.

  11. Halligan142 says:

    I use M-2 for 90% of my needs. If I have a project where I know I will be
    doing a lot of cutting and it would be a real pain to reset position if I
    were to have to remove the bit to sharpen it or I’m going into a tougher
    material I use M-42 cobalt steel. I have tried T-15 which is supposedly
    stronger than that, but it is real brittle and an absolute PAIN to grind.

  12. Halligan142 says:

    No special grinds required. You can use a RH or LH depending on which way
    your toolpost is swung and if you’re doing an internal or external chamfer.
    For small chamfers say like breaking an edge I use a file or just use the
    flat of the toolbit to knock down the edge. For chamfers on thread starts I
    use either a file or the edge of the threading tool.

  13. parkorn unruan says:

    thank you very much easy to uderstand.

  14. rfcarlson1 says:

    Very good video. Your best so far. Lots of info and common sense. News I
    can use. Best video I’ve seen. Btw, I thought of a project… a collet
    holder. Lots of people who’ve with mid-size laths still need to do small
    work. How about an ER40 collet chuck that could be used in a 4-jaw chuck.
    Why a 4-jaw? For those using sloppy used equipment or the China equivalent.
    The 4-jaw offers some control in getting things centered up. Why ER40? Good
    collet size range & easier than 5c. Thanks again.

  15. gamingSlasher says:

    I like your way of explaining things. The first part of the angles were
    confusing though. Otherwise I am looking forward for the next part,
    especially how to cut your hss bits.

  16. david sanderson says:

    yes boxfords are very popular here all the schools used them so theres
    loads about. parts are pricey though ebay being the best place. a model A
    underdrive on a cabinet can fetch prices up to £1000 thats the gearbox model

  17. Caleb Welte says:

    Hone the tool as sharp possible and it should love the 12L14 or any other
    leaded stock. Ive never bothered with one, only seen attempts on utube. The
    theory on the tool, it should love any free machining stock, look forward
    to your tests.

  18. Micheal Double says:

    Thank you. Great video. I’ve watched several videos on grinding tools but
    your is by far the most concise fora person brand new to lathes. Thank you

  19. BasementShopGuy says:

    Great video. I’ve been getting really bad results and it very well be the
    scrap metals I have lying around. So I’ve bee diving into grinders,
    dressers and such…

  20. densel isaacs says:

    these tools do cut good if you have cutting speeds and feed rates correct

  21. lepompier132 says:

    I think you and many others have a misconception about carbid tools and
    inserts and HSS tools bits. Did you know they are selling HSS inserts and
    you can mill or turn hard materials with those at low speeds and feeds.
    It’s possible to machine hard material with HSS with the proper setting and
    have good quality finish. And I think you’re doing something wrong when you
    use carbide tooling on your lathe.

  22. Halligan142 says:

    A radius increases cutting pressure not allowing you to take as deep a cut,
    but makes a nicer finish. A point decreases cutting pressure and allows you
    to take a deeper cut, but makes a rougher finish. If your speeds feeds and
    lube are all correct you shouldn’t burn up the tool.

  23. dubphat says:

    carbide @ 1200 would be a diameter of 5/8 3/4 tops, even then that’s fast,
    maybe for a small finishing cut, hi rpm/ slow feed I picked up a diamond
    dremel wheel ebay for 5$ and works great for ever

  24. Halligan142 says:

    Personally no. HSS is cheaper and can be ground into any shape I need and I
    tend to get a better finish. I don’t really work with materials that would
    require carbide tooling, and I’m not a production shop so a few minutes
    here and there grinding or sharpening tools doesn’t bother me. Plus my
    lathe is a bit on the slow and light side and can’t really take advantage
    of the speeds and depth of cuts carbide can deliver over HSS. But all
    things being equal it’s a personal preference.

  25. not2fast4u2c says:

    Thanks for this video Iam starting to learn how to sharpen bits I have a
    small nano lathe and it is similar to a Sherline in size of what it can do
    Their bits are different than bigger Lathes The last bit you showed may
    help me to make a fine finish on mine Also The bit that looks similar to a
    thread cutting bit Would be an interesting one to see

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